Ruffling and stitching machine.



A. H. DE v03. RUFFLING AND STITOHING MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED MAY 23, 1910.

1 74,845; Patented Oct. 7, 1913.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

M 2 WITNESSES: 7 X4 l/Vl/E/VTOR 7 .4% wa Q} mn/m H1! z 2/ v I W ATTORNEYA. HIDE VOIL- RUFPLING AND STITGHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 23, 1910.

1 74,845, Patented Oct. 7, 1913.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

UNHED STATES PATENT @FFWE.

vALIBlElIR/l H. DE VOE, OF ELIZABETH, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGERDIANTL FACTU'RING CDMPANY, A CGRPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

RUFFLING AND STITCI-IING MACHINE.

Application fiIed'May 23, 1910.

vide a rufl'ling, folding and stitching ma chine capable of convenientuse in fulling .and stitching endless folded seams extendmg completelyaround the garment, such as the bottoms of ladies skirts and otherarticles'in which the operations upon the work end at substantially thepoint where they were begun.

According to the present improvement,

the millin mechanism includes a vibrator b 1 lever to whlch is attachedby a universal ]01I1,t connection a blade carrylng lever adapted to bethrown laterally and upwardly out of operative position and pro-' videdwith the usual rufliing blade normally in alinement with thestitch-form- The vibratory ruifling disposed ing. mechanism. 7 lever isprovided with a shoulder by engagement with which the. blade-carryinglever can be maintained in retracted elevated position at one side ofthe line of seam when the machine is used for plain stitching in thefinal portion of the seam. The machine is provided with anupperfold-guide mounted upon a carrying. arm or lever having a universal.01m: connection with a normally stationary member of the machine whichlatter 1 is provided with a stop-shoulder for holding 1t 1n retractedposltion above and at the 2 same side of the stitching line as theruffl'ing blade, when not in use; and it is further provided with alower fold-guide slidingly mounted to be shifted out of operativeposition at the opposite side of the stitching line. By suchconstruction and arrangement, as the folding, rufliing and stitchingapproaches the starting point, the edge-fold ing members may bewithdrawn from their respective folds of the superposed plies of fabricand the rufiiing blade laterally shifted out of operative relation withthe work without disturbing the latter, so that the remainder of theseam may be guided and folded by hand while the stitching mech-Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Get. 7, 1913.

Serial No. 562,798.

anism continues its action to finish the operation upon the garment.

:The invention will be understood by reference to the accompanyingdrawings, in which Figure 1. is a front side elevation of a machineembodying the present improvements, and Fig. 2 an end view of the samewith the face plate of the bracket-arm removed and the work-plate intransverse section to expose the parts beneath the same. Fig. 3 is aperspective view of the ruttling and folding devices and a portion ofthe stitch-forming mechanism. Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the upperfold-guide carrying lever and .ruffling blade carrier with the universaljoint connections with their respective supports, showing the fold-guideand ruttling blade in retracted position. Fig. 5 is a rear sideelevation representing the same universal joint connections in thepositions which they assume when their respective work-engaging membersare in operative position. Figs. 6, 7, 8 and 9 are perspective views ofthe several. members of the universal joint connection between the upperfoldguide carrying lever and the presser-bar by which it is supported;and Figs. 10, 11, 12 and 18 are similar views of the universal jointconnection between the rufliing blade carrying arm or lever and thevibratory lever by which it is sustained. 14 is a perspective viewshowing a portion of the work produced by the machine.

In their general construction and arrangement of parts thestitch-forming and feeding and the rutl'ling mechanism of the presentimprovement, as represented in the drawings, are similar to those of mypending application Serial No. 552,9 l8, filed April 2, 1910.

The frame of the machine is constructed with the base 1 and bracket-armformed with hollow standard 2 and overhanging portion 3 in the head f ofwhich is journaled the vertically reciprocating needlebar 5 withtwin-needle clamp carrying the diagonally arranged needles 7 cooperatingwith the loopers 8 beneath the work-plate 9 in the production ofparallel double chainstitch seams, the work being advanced to space thestitches by the action of the feeddog 10 carried by the feed-bar 11. Thepressure member 12 of the presser-foot, op-

posed to the feed-dog 10, is pivotally attached to the shank 13 securedby means of the fastening screw 14 to the reduced lower end of thepresser-bar 15 mounted in the head 4 of the bracket-arm and having itsupper end engaged by the pressure spring 16.

As described in detail in my said application, a longitudinally disposedrock-shaft 17 operatively connected with the main-shaft of the machineis mounted in suitable bearings 18 upon the bracket-arm andcarries inits forward portion a crank-arm 19 connected by means of a link 20 withan arm 21 fixed to the rearward end of a rock-shaft 22 journaled in thebracket-arm head 4 and having upon its forward end the depending arm 23having a swivel connection. 24 with the slotted vibratory rutliing lever25 hung upon the stud-screw 26 of the lifting arm 27 which is fulcrumedat one end upon the pin 28 and has at its opposite end a pivotalconnection 29 with the presser-bar 15. The rock-shaft 17 thuscommunicates through the several described connections operativevibratory movements to the lever 25 in a plane in front of and parallelwith the line of scam, while such lever follows the rising and fallingmovements of the presser foot through its connection with thepresser-bar.

The ofiset lower extremity 25 of the lever 25 is formed with atransverse bearing boss 30 in which is journaled the rocking fulcrum-pin31 formed upon its inner end with a bifurcated head 32 constituting aswivelblock in the fork 33 of which is pivotally mounted by means of thetransverse screwpin 34 entering the aperture 35 thereof the flattenedrearward end portion 36 of the ruffling blade carrying arm or lever 37arranged at the opposite side of the needlepath from the rufiiing lever25. The opposite end portion of the lever 37 is bent downwardly andprovided with a lateral ear 38 upon which is secured by means of thefastening screws 39 the shank of the rutliing blade 40 having itsoperative end portion provided with the usual needle-receiving.

notch 41 and fabric engaging serrations 42. Adjustably secured upon thebearing boss 30 of the lever 25 by means of the clamp-screw 43 is thesplit collar 44 provided with a laterally projecting stop-lug 45 whoseend extends normally in substantial alinement with the pivotal pin 34and registers with the rearwardly extending and slightly offset finger36* of the member 36 of the lever 37.

l/Vhen the lever 37 is in normal or operative position, as representedin Fig. 5, the end of the stop-lug 45 is in contact with the adjacentedge of the finger 36 to prevent the lateral shifting of the lever 37backwardly from the stitch line, while the inner extremity of the fork33 of the swivel-block 32 engages the edge of the extension 36 toprevent the lateral displacement of the lever in the opposite direction.When theretraction engagement of the top of the finger 36 with thebottom of the stop-lug 45, the return of the ruffiing blade to operativerelation-with the stitch-forming mechanism being effected by reciprocalmovements of the lever 37.

The reduced and shouldered forward end portion 31 of the rocking pin 31has secured thereon by means of the set-screw 4,6 and clamp-nut 47 thehub 48 of a; rigid. arm 49 provided in the top of its extremity with asocket entered by the point of a threaded thrust-rod 50 journaled at itsupper end in the lug 51 formed upon the lever 25, between which and theguide-block 52 fitted upon the threaded portion of the rod50 and forkedto embrace the guide-rib 53 of the lever 25 is interposed the spring-54by means of which the arm 4.9 is pressed downwardly,

and, through its described connections therewith, the rullling blade 40.

The presser-bar has adjustably secured thereon above its lower reducedportion by means of the clamp-screw 55 the split col-. lar 56 having alateral arm 57 carrying the bearing boss 58 in which is journaled therocking pin 59 having at its inner end a bifurcated head 60 constitutinga swivel-block in the fork 61 of which is pivotally mounted,

by means of the transverse screw-pin 62 entering the aperture 63thereof, the member 64 to which is secured by means of the screw 65 therearward extremity of the upper foldguide carrying arm or lever 66. Theforward end of the lever 66 has secured thereto one member of theinverted U-shaped shank 67 of the upper edge-folding guide 68 throughwhich the underturned marginal portion of the upper ply of fabric isdelivered beneath the presser-foot and over the ruflling blade to thestitch-forming mechanism.

Adjustably secured upon the bearing boss 58 carried by the split collar56 by means of the clamp-screw 69 is the split collar 70 provided with alaterally projecting stop-lug 71 whose end extends normally insubstantial alinement with the pivotal pin 62 and registers with therearwardly extending and slightly offset finger 64 of thefolder-carrying lever member 64, while the lip 72 projecting from thelug 71 overhangs the top of the finger 64 so that its engagement withthe same serves to limit the po sition of the folder 68 above thework-plate when the presser-bar is raised. The rocking fulcrum-pin 59 isheld against endwise ment with the bottom ofthe lug 7l'whereby menusmovement within its bearingr-boss '58, by

means of the swivel-block 60 atone endr.

and the head of the screw 73 tapped into; its'opposite end.

"lVhen the parts are 'inthe-operative posi tions represented in'fulllines in -Figs. 1, 2,= 3 and'5,the-shanlr 67 ofthe folder 68 straddlesthe lever 37, whilethe lever 66iis-maintained in positionby-=the=engagement of the finger 64 *witlr-the outer end of'athe;stop-lug 71 and-the edge o'f-the member 64 in advance of-the-aperture63engages the inner end of-the fork 61 inthe-blocktior In order todisengage the folder 68 fromthe work, thelever 66 is-firstraisedtobrin-g the top of the finger-64*beneath the-lower face of the lug 71,after which such lever is swung backward'lyfrem the stitchinginechanisin to bring the finger 64 intoengage such 'carryingwlever isretained in its re tracted position as shown in'Fig. 4 and in a dottedlines in Fig. 3. F

The presser-bar 15- has secured thereon by means of the set-screw 74theusualcollar f 75 having-the rearwardly extending lug 7 6 adapted tobeengaged by the "cam shaped portion 77 of the lifting lever 78pivotally mounted in the head 4 ofthe bracket'arm by meansofthe-fulc-rummin 79, and "the-operation of the lever 78 causes the.raising and lowering of the presse-r-bar 15, and'with it thepresser-foot,:the ruffling lever 25,-blade'- carrying lever 37 andrufllingblade 40, and the fold guide carrying lever- 66 and foldguide68. Fast-cued uponthe-throat-pl-ate 80 by means of-the rivets 81 is thecorru gated wear-plate 82 having p'arallel grooves in its face toreceive the-points of the-Serra tions 42 of the rut-Hing blade 40 in thenormal action of the same-while the ruiiling-is being performed.

lilount-e'd within suitable bearings 83=and 84 beneath the workeplate atthe front of the machine is the longitudinal slide-bar 85 having adjustablysecuredto its forward end by means of the set-screw 86 the'depending 1 boss 87 of a slide-block '88 whose upper portion is fittedwithin a sli'deway 89 formed in the work-plate and having its uppersurface flush with the top of the latt er. Se Y cured upon said block bymeans of screws '90 is the sliding base-plate 91-of the lower edgefolder92 arranged-within the stitching line beneath the ruiiling-bl'ad'e andhaving the auxiliary work-supporting plate 93 forming 9 a continuationofthe'plate 91 at the opposite T side of .the stitching line Securedupon the plate 91 means of the screws 90 and by the additional screw 90*is the foot 94 of a spring pressure blade 95* overlying thefoldguide '92and projecting somewhat in a-d- 3 Vance of'the same and serving-to pressdown- 3 wardly upon the tongue of the folder-92 and upon the wear-plate82 the folded mar gin of'thelower fabric so as to crease the sameforpreventing distortion or disarr'angement asthe latter is engaged by thei serratedoperative edge of the ruffling blade 40 in ruflling orcrimping thesame preparatory to attachment to the marginally foldedupper p'ly bythe stitch-forming mechanism. Surrounding the slide-bar 85and interposed-between -therearward bearing 83' and the collar 96,adjustably secured. thereon, is

a spring 97 tending to force the slide-bar forwardly tothrow the lowerfold-guide laterally of-theastitching line into inoperative position;and upon therearward end ofthe slide+bar 85 is adjustably secured bymeans of -the set-screws 98 a collar 99 having the upwardly: extending.lug 100 upon I which is pivotally mounted by means of the studscrew 101.t-henrearward end of a latch-lever l02 'formed ih the lower edge of itsfree end with anotch 103 adapted to engagethe-rearward end of thebearing 83 to lock the slidebar in itsirearward position but adaptit,when lifted by means of'the finger-piece 104,

to permit the slide-bar to move forwardly underthe action of its spring97 so as to disengage the lower fold-guide from the lower ply ofmaterialoverlying the plate 93. m In the use of the machine as thus described,the presser-foot is raised whereby the upper and lower fold-guides andruffling blade are separated but are otherwise retained: in operativerelation with the stitching mechanism. The lower ply a of fabric is thenintroduced in the fold-guide 92 fromzthe right and a fold (1 thus formedtherein, after which the upper ply of mate rial Z) is introduced fromthe left into the fold-guide 60 and its margin turned downwardly intothe fold b, as represented in Fig. 14.. The'presser-bar is then lowered,whereby the ruflling blade is forcibly brought into engagement with thelower ply of fabric. The machine being set in operation, parallel. linesof stitching a and (Z are pro duced, the former passing through the bodyofvthe' upper ply of fabric andthe folded margin of" the lower ply nearthe edge, while the latter passes through the folded margin of the upperply of fabric and the bodyof the'lower ply beyond the edge of its folda. WVhile the stitching progresses, the :ruffling. blade 40 operatesupon the folded marginalaportion of the lower fabric and ruffles thesame, as illustrated in Fig. 14. To insure the proper creasing of thefolded margin of the lower fabric so as to prevent disarrangement of thefold, the pressure blade 95 extends forwardly of the delivery end of thefolder and compresses the fold upon the tongue 92 of the folder and thewear-plate '82.

In the ruftling and stitching of skirts and similar'artieles havingendless seams, forwhich the present improvement is particularlydesigned, the body of the work is presented from the left and thereforecovers the outer end of the work-plate, so that parts beneath the sameare not conveniently accessible to the operator while the work is in,place. For this reason, the shifting means for the lower of theindependently acting edge-turning fold-guides, comprising the slide-bar85 and the latch-lever 102, are disposed mainly at the opposite side ofthe rattling-blade path from the supporting slide-block 88 constitutingthe fold-guide carrier. By this construction, means are provided uponthe same side of the stitchline as that to which the upper fold-guide isshifted whereby the lower fold-guide may beJshifted out of operativerelation with the stitchforming mechanism. In closing a seam, therefore,both the upper and lower fold-guides may be laterally shifted out ofoperative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism without disturbingthe work, so that the seam may be finished with the greatest convenienceand with least possible loss of time. 7

It is evident that the details of construction of the presentimprovement aresusceptible of considerable modification withoutdeparture from the scope of the invention. 7

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis r 1. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of rufiling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever, a carrierpivotally mounted upon and movable transversely of the direction ofvibra tory movement of said lever, a ruilling blade mounted upon saidcarrier, means. disposed above the path of operative movement of therutlling blade and detachably connected with the carrier for normallymaintaining the ruflling blade in operative relation with thestitch-forming mechanism, independently-acting edge-turning fold-guidesnormally disposed respectively above and below said ruffling blade, alaterally swinging carrier for one of said fold-guides whereby thelatter may be shifted to one side of the stitch-forming mechanism, and alaterally movable carrier for the other fold-guide adapted to be shiftedin the opposite direction from the first-mentioned fold-guide carrierand provided with shifting means crossing the line of movement of theruffiing blade and controllable from the same side thereof as thefirst-mentioned foldguide carrier.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of rufliing mechanism comprising a vibratory lever, a carrier pivotallymounted upon and movable transversely of the direction of vibratorymovement of said lever, and a rufliing blade mounted upon said carrier,a fold-guide normally disposed in overlapping relation with said ru iingblade, a carrier-lever upon which said fold-guide is mounted, a normallystationary support, and a universal joint connection between saidsupport and the carrier lever whereby the latter is adapted to beshifted laterally and upwardly out of operative position. I

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of ruflling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever, a carrier havinguniversal joint connection with'said vibratory lever, and a rufflingblade mounted upon said carrier, a fold-guide normally disposed inoverlapping relation with said rufliing blade, a carrier-lever uponwhich said fold-guide is mounted, a normally stationary support, auniversal joint connection between said support and the carrier-leverwhereby the latter is adapted to be shifted laterally and upwardly outof operative position, and stops mounted independently of the rufliingblade carrier and fold-guide carrying lever for maintaining' them inretracted position.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of ruflling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever, a blade-carryinglever, a rutlling blade mounted upon said blade-carrying lever, aswivelblock having a fulcrum-pin mounted upon and transversely of thedirection of operative movement of said vibratory lever, a pivotalconnection between said blade-carrying lever and said swivel-blockdisposed transversely of the latters fulcrum-pin and positively actingmeans disposed Wholly above the path of operative movement of theruffling blade for restraining the latter from lateral displacement outof normal operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of ruffling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever, a blade-carryinglever, a rufiiing blade mounted upon said bladecarrying lever, aswivel-block having a v fulcrum-pin .mounted upon and transversely ofthe direction of operative movement of said vibratory. lever, a pivotalconnection between said bladecarrying lever and said swivel-blockdisposed transversely of the latters fulcrumpin, and a stop mountedindependently of the blade-carrying lever and adapted to sustain thesame when shifted laterally and upwardly out of operative position.

6. In a sewing machine, the. combination withstitch-forming mechanism,of ruffling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever, a blade-carryinglever, a rufliing blade mounted upon said blade-carrying lever, aswivel-block having a fulcrum-pin mounted upon and transversely of thedirection of operative movement of said vibratory lover, a pivotalconnection between said bladecarrying lever and said swivel blockdisposed transversely of the latters fulcrumpin, and a stop membercarried by said vibratory lever and adapted to engage and sustain theblade-carrying lever in elevated position when the rutlling blade isshifted out of engagement with the work.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism,of ruilling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever, a bladecarryinglever, a iaifiiing blade mounted upon said blade-carrying lever, aswivel block having a fulcrum-pin mounted upon and transversely of thedir ction of operative movement of said vibratory lever, a pivotalconnection transverse to said fulcrum-pin bet-ween said swivel-block andthe blade-carrying lever intermediate the ends of the latter, and a stopmember carried by said vibratory lever normally out of sustainingrelation therewith, but adapted to engage the end portion of the sameopposite that carrying the rui'lling blade when the latter is shiftedlaterally and upwardly out of operative engagement with the work.-

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of ruiiling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever provided with atransverse bearing boss, a blade-carrying lever, a rutl'ling blademounted upon said blade-carrying lever, a swivel-block having afulcrum-pin mounted in said bearing boss, a pivotal connectiontransverse to said fulcrum-pin between said swivel-block andblade-carrying lever, and a collar adjustably mounted upon said bearingboss and provided with a stop-lug ad apted to engage and sustain theblade-carrying lever when shifted laterally and upwardly to disengagethe rutlling blade from the work.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of ruiiling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever having a transversebearing, a blade-carrying lever, a ru'tfiing blade mounted upon saidblade-carrying lever, a swivel-block having a fulcrum-pin mounted in thetransverse bearing of said vibratory lever, a pivotal connectiontransverse to said fulcrum-pin between said swivel-block andblade-carrying lever, an arm fixed upon said fulcrum-pin, aspring-pressed thrust-rod carried by said vibratory lever and engagingsaid fixed arm for pressing the ruliiing blade into operative engagementwith the work, and adjusting means whereby the action of said thrust-rodupon the ruffling blade may be varied.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of ruffling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever having a transversebearing boss, a blade-carrying lever, and a ruflling blade mounted uponsaid blade-carrying lever, a presser-foot, a resser-bar to which thesame is secured, a

fold-guide normally disposed in overlapping relation with said rufliingblade, a carrierlever upon which said fold-guide is mounted, a bearingboss sustained by said presser-bar, and universal joint connectionsbetween the lade-carrying lever and the bearing boss of said vibratorylever and between the foldguide carrying lever and the bearing boss ofsaid presser-bar, said connections each comprising a swivel-block havinga fulcrum-pin, mounted within its respective hearing boss, and a pivotalconnection transverse to said fulcrum-pin with the carrying lever,

wvhereby thelatter is adapted to be shifted upwardly and laterally outof normal operative position.

11. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of milling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever having a transversebearing boss, a bladecarrying lever, and a willing blade mounted uponsaid blade-carrying lever, a presserfoot, a presser-bar to which thesame is secured, a fold-guide normally disposed in overlapping relationwith said ruftling blade, a carrier-lever upon which said fold-guideisunounted, a bearing boss sustained by said presser-bar, and universaljoint connections between the blade-carrying lever and the bearing bossof said vibratory lever and between the fold-guide carrying lever andthe bearing boss of said presser-bar, said connections each comprising aswivel-block having a fulcrum-pin mounted within its respective bearingboss, a pivotal connection transverse to said fulcrum-pin with thecarrying lever, whereby the latter is adapted to be shifted upwardly andlaterally out of normal operative position, and a collar adapted to besecured upon said boss and provided with a stop-lug normally out ofsustaining relation with said carrying lever, but adapted to engage thesame when the latter is shifted laterally and upwardly out of operativeposition.

12. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming mechanism,of ruflling mechanism comprising a vibratory lever, a carrier having adouble pivotal connection therewith and movable upwardly and laterallyin relation to said lever, and a ruii ling blade mounted upon saidcarrier, an upper fold-guide normally disposed above said ruillingblade, a carrier-lever upon which said fold-guide is mounted, a normallystationary support, a double pivotal connection between said support andcarrier-lever whereby the latter is adapted to be shifted upwardly andlaterally relatively to the operative movements of said vibratory lever,a lower fold-guide disposed below said ruffling blade, a sliding carriertherefor movable transversely of the direction of operative movement ofsaid vibratory lever, a spring for throwing the lower fold-guidelaterally out of operative position, and a latch-lever for locking thelower fold-guide in operative position.

13. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,including a reciprocating needle, of rutfling mechanism comprising avibratory lever, a blade-carrying lever, a willing blade mounted uponsaid blade-carrying lever, a swivel-block having a fulcrum-pin mountedupon and trans versely of the direction of operative move ment of saidvibratory lever and rearward of the needlepath, a pivotal connectionbetween said blade-carrying lever and said swivel-block disposedtransversely, of the latters fulcrum-pin and also rearwardly of theneedle-path, and means for locking said blade-carrying lever againstmovement upon its pivotal connection with the swivel-block.

14. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismincluding a reciprocating needle, of milling mechanism comprising avibratory lever having a transverse bearing, a blade-carrying leverdisposed at one side of the path of reciprocation of the needle, arufiiing blade mounted upon said blade-carrying lever, a swivelblockhaving a fulcrum-pin mounted in the transverse bearing of said vibratorylever, a pivotal connection transverse to said fulcrum-pin between saidswivel-block and blade-carrying lever, an arm fixed upon saidfulcrum-pin at the opposite side of the needle-path from theblade-carrrying lever, a spring acting upon said fixed arm for pressingthe ruflling blade into operative engagement with the work, and meansfor adjusting the tension of said spring.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, inthe presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ALBERT H. DE VOE.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. G.

